We've all done it and we've all marveled at the different trends celebrities have made with it. Any makeup artist would tell you that the smoky eye is probably the easiest makeup look to do. This is a universal look, trust me. It can work for anyone and at any time - young and old, day or night. However, so many things can go wrong with a simple smoky eye.
So here we will outline a few things you need to take note of when deciding to wear a smoky eye. Right off the bat I will tell you that this is not just an evening look. Any color can be used to create a smoky eye so for day you just have to opt for lighter colored shadows as compared to the evening smoky eye which uses darker, more intense pigments. The things we will discuss here are just principles, however. Things you should consider. These are not steadfast rules, however they are not merely suggestions either. Think of a place in between the two. You can mix up a few of the principles or throw in your own personal style but know that these principles are researched and have worked wonderfully over the course of my makeup artist life. So here we go...
Principle # 1 : Thou shall use an eye primer and a base
Because we will be using quite a lot of shadow and quite a lot of pigment it's best to find a way to get them to really stick to your eyelids. The use of an eye primer followed by a base can ensure that your shadows won't budge or crease throughout the day. The base for your eyeshadow should be a cream eyeshadow that in itself does not crease. Before buying cream shadows you can try testing it on the back of your hand. Swatch it and then move on. After a few hours check the cream shadow on your hand. If it got erased or cracked then it won't do your smoky eye no good. It would be great if you used the same color cream shadow as your powder eyeshadow but if you don't have matchy shadows I suggest using a nude colored cream base. You can try out MAC's soft ochre paint pot as it has a more natural warm color where as the painterly paint pot may look a bit ashy on warmer skin tones.
Principle # 2 : Thou shall use an eyeshadow color complimentary to your eye color
Smoky does not always mean black. We probably all know this by now. Your choice of color can greatly affect the outcome of your smoky eye. Brown is a universally flattering shade for any eye color. It can emphasize and bring out the blue, brown or green of your eye. A smoky eye can generally make your eye seem smaller so the use of an eyeshadow color that compliments your eye color can help your eyes pop and not seem closed off. You can use a combination of two colors, one that's darker and one that's lighter. This lessens the work of having to blend the eyeshadows to create a lighter hue on the top. You can place the darker eyeshadow either on the lashline or on the corners of your eyes. Just remember to blend them together so the transition of the colors would look seamless. Here's a guide to colors you can consider with respect to your eye color:
Brown eyes - purple, copper, taupe, rust, hazel, chartreuse and red
Blue eyes - bronze, light copper, gold, blue, pink and mauve
Green eyes - purple, violet, mauve, red and black
Principle # 3 : Thou shall pat, not swipe
After blending in your cream shadow it is now time to pack on the color. In doing this you must use a flat brush to gather eyeshadow and then pat it on your eyelid. Don't worry if the edges aren't blended, you'll do that after this step. Patting on the powder lessens the chance of fallouts that you'll have to clean after completing your eye makeup. Patting also gives you a richer color payoff as compared to swiping the shadow on your eyelids.
Principle # 4 : Thou shall leave a space for highlight
There is nothing more unflattering than looking like you just escaped a gang fight and sporting a smoky eye that reaches all the way up to your eyebrows past your brow bone can make you look just that. The highlight for the smoky eye serves two purpose : first is to give a different dimension to your eye that way it won't look too flat because you've used just one or two colors. The second purpose is to support the gradient that a smoky eye must have. More about that on the next principle.
Principle # 5 : Thou shall smoke
Not literally smoke. If you will look at smoke notice it's characteristics. It's hazy and has a point of intensity that gradually moves to a lesser intensity. The smokiness of your smoky eye should be concentrated and centered on the eyelashes. That is where you must build your eyeshadow and softly lightening it as you go higher. Smoke is not dark all the way up and in doing a smoky eye that is also what we must achieve. A clean blending brush is your best tool in doing this. Remember that we've patted on the color and not really blended it all the way through. With your clean blending brush you are to go over the edges of your shadow to create a soft haze that will meet your brow bone highlighter.
Principle # 6 : Thou shall not forget the undereye area
Ever tried to put on a smoky eye and thought, "wow that looks great but it still looks like something's missing." That's your undereye area telling you, "hey what about me?" The eye makeup is a complete look. You must not forget to swipe on eyeshadow on your undereye because it creates continuity to your look. It closes off the circle of your eyes and really makes them the focal point of your entire face. Use a short shader brush to deposit just the right amount of color as close to the lashline as possible.
Principle # 7 : Thou shall wear eyeliner
Depending on the color of your eyeshadow you can use any color eyeliner to complete your look. Just make sure your eyeliner is dark enough to create the intensity your smoky eye needs. You can use a color that matches your eyeshadow color or just a trusty old black. Line your water line and your tight line if you're using dark intense colors. If you're doing a smoky eye for day you can use black liner on top and brown liner on your water line for an intense but still soft look.
Principle # 8 : Thou shall work thy lashes
Curl them and "wack on loads of mascara" as Nicola of Pixiwoo would always say. Even if you're using a dark eyeshadow curling your eyelashed and intensifying them with mascara can really open up your eyes. You can do a Kim Kardashian style by also applying mascara on you lower lashes. Putting on mascara is also used to paint over the pigments that have fallen on your lashes. Grey, green or blue lashes are not flattering.
There you have it. Foolproof ways to create your own smoky eye. You don't really have to match your eyeshadow color to the color of your outfit. Some cases it may work, other cases you might look like a teletubby. Above all, don't forget that makeup should make you feel beautiful. Have fun! :)
